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Aloha, fellow adventurers! Get ready to embark on a journey to the breathtaking Big Island of Hawaii, where the sun kisses the Pacific, and adventure awaits around every volcanic bend! And yes, you will be arriving on to a Volcano! Black lava is everywhere! But let’s dive into the ultimate guide for a fabulous vacation on the Big Island.

I’ll cover what we did while here and maybe a few other things we want to make time for when we come back:

Table of Content:

Best Spots for Snorkeling
Breathtaking hikes (but ones that won’t kill you!)
Wonderful Waterfalls!
Off the Beaten Path Beaches
Wind-in-the-Hair Car Drives
Coffee!! A Hawaiian Staple Food
A Glimpse at Hawaiian History

Spectacular Snorkeling: Dive into Liquid Rainbows

Honaunau Bay (AKA Two Step)

Grab your trusty snorkel gear, because the Big Island is a veritable underwater wonderland. Head to Honaunau Bay, also known as the Place of Refuge, also known as Two Step (since there are 2 Steps down to the water under the monument) for some of the clearest waters of Hawaii and vibrant coral reefs that are teaming with marine life. It’s like snorkeling in a living aquarium – fish in every shade of the rainbow, curious sea turtles, and maybe even a chill octopus or two. The sea critters appreciate good company, but please do NOT touch them or the coral! It is pristine and healthy, and Hawaii wants to leave it that way. While you are here, take a little stroll through the historic Place of Refuge Park which has a very interesting story to tell. While you stroll, you can read about why it’s called the Place of Refuge on the map you can pick up at the entrance. But the short of the story is that, if a person committed a crime on this island, they would be sentenced to death and pursued on foot. If they could run or swim to this part of the island before those pursuing could catch him or her, they were safe there and would be pardoned by one of the priests who lived there as it is sacred territory.

Kealakekua Bay:

Since the nearby coastal town is named Captain Cook, I learned a little about the famed Captain while here. When he first arrived, he was given god-like status. But then he left…. And after his ship was damaged, he had to return shortly after.. When he came back, well…. Things didn’t go as well, and after a short-lived skirmish with the Native Hawaiians, including an attempt to kidnap their king, they killed Captain Cook! Yikes. Lost his god status pretty quick. But putting that aside for a moment, this bay was our favorite place to snorkel! We really did feel like we were in our own personal aquarium swimming in not very deep water with the schools of yellow and black fish, striped fish, Rainbow Fish, Dory, Gill, etc…. Just exhilarating! This underwater sanctuary has earned it’s reputation as one of the best snorkeling areas on the Big Island.

For Benoit and I, this was the first time we have used prescription snorkels! And this made such a huge difference! You can buy these on Amazon before you come, OR you can rent them when you get here from several snorkel shops, including Snorkel Bobs right along the beach in Kona.

For a great snorkeling day trip, we picked the company Dolphin Discoveries. Get ready for a lot of fun on this boatride! It was faster than I expected, and also being a smaller boat, we could get up close and personal to some amazing sites along the way from our two snorkeling venues. Such a great crew!

Manta Ray Tour:

This night tour to go snorkeling over the Manta Rays was definitely on our bucket list to do this trip, and most definitely should be on yours! Unfortunately, the evening we planned to go was canceled due to very large swells on the ocean which made it too dangerous to go out. Plan these types of trips or events early on in your stay so that you can reschedule for a later date if there’s weather or a rough ocean.

Hiking Highs: Trails that Take You to the Top

Pololu Valley Lookout:

Now, let’s lace up those hiking boots and hit the trails while you’re here! For an epic hike, head to Waipi’o Valley. The panoramic views from the overlook will make you feel like you’re on top of the world. The hike down into the valley is an adventure in itself, with lush green landscapes, waterfalls, and maybe a wild horse or two. We drove to this point, but were not prepared for the strenuous hike down and back up (the strenuous part being the “back up” the hill!) but the attendants at the top allow you to park for a short while just to take in the incredible view and enjoy the fresh island breezes billowing in from the ocean. So take your pick!

Hawaii National Volcano Park:

For a stroll through lava fields, peak over the edge of an active crater, feel the heat of active steam vents, and to hike through an ancient art gallery of over 23,000 petroglyphs, drive up to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park! If you have an America the Beautiful Pass for National Parks, remember to bring it (unlike me! oops.) While up there, do not miss the smaller crater trail! It brings you through a beautiful rain forest along the crater’s edge, ending at a large lava tube that you can walk through! YIKES!! But no worries, it’s tall and illuminated with small lights in the walls. So easy peasy! If you are very ambitious, you can also walk straight across the crater!! WOW…. The crater that was a liquid lake of magma in 1959…. So nah, I was not that ambitious, but my daughter who lives on the Big Island has done it several times and assures you that it’s quite safe and inactive.

Waterfall Wonders: Chasing Liquid Magic

Akaka Falls State Park:

No adventure is complete without some waterfall magic! Akaka Falls State Park is impressive, grand, and totally Instagram-worthy. A short hike through the rainforest leads you to the jaw-dropping Akaka Falls, plummeting 442 feet into a lush, tropical pool below. This is a great addition to the day you drive around the Hilo area, as it is located on the shoreline north of Hilo.

Rainbow Falls:

We did not make it to Akaka Falls while over in Hilo, but we did take a quick jaunt to Rainbow Falls! The morning sun creates rainbows in the mist, making it the perfect spot for a selfie that screams “Living my best island life!” There was plenty of that happening at Rainbow Falls because it’s very easy to reach from Hilo, practically in the town itself. Plus, take a short walk around to marvel at the giant Banyon Trees that grow here at the edge of the falls. These trees grown backwards! Their branchs reach downward and take root in the ground, and then grow upwards to add another layer to the banyon tree. It’s a maze to climb up into it, says Agnes!

There is a marvelous ancient tale of battle and woe between two Hawaiian gods that you can read about on the signs overlooking the falls.

Off the Beaten Path Beaches: Secret Sands and Hidden Havens

Beautiful beaches abound around the Big Island. Each one with it’s magical charm, and wildly beautiful sunsets. Truly, every night… beautiful, sunsets! But after a few days, it’s exciting to ditch the more crowded beach locales and discover the island’s best-kept secret ones!

Papakolea Green Sand Beach:

Pssst… don’t tell anyone, but Papakolea Beach is a hidden gem with olive-green sand, thanks to the surrounding olivine crystals. Getting there will be an adventure, but, it’s worth every bumpy, dusty mile! We rented a jeep in order to be able to get to some of the more secluded beaches and we were not disappointed by the ones we visited! This green sand beach was definitely on our bucket list, however, when in Hawaii driving through all these beautiful areas and sites, one can get easily distracted by other sites along the way! So our Green sand beach day turned into a coffee farm tour and small village stops, etc… All were equally as fascinating. We based our stay on Island Time, which means changes of plan and delays to be expected!

We have heard that you can also catch a ride down to this beach with a local who will give you a ride to and from so you don’t break your car! And on this road, you just may, even if it’s a jeep! So if it’s NOT a jeep, don’t even try it! Hitch a ride or hike down to it.

Makalawena Beach:

If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, hike or 4 wheel drive down to the secluded Makalawena Beach. It’s like stumbling upon a private beach that only the cool kids know about! The pristine sand and turquoise water are the perfect backdrop for some serious lounging time. Just kick back with a tropical beverage in hand, and enjoy a spectacular day of ocean breezes, with plenty of trees around for shade. If you stay for the sunset, make sure you set out before it’s completely dark cuz the trail across the path of weathered AA (sharp, pointy, ankle twisting lava!) would be hard…ER in the dark!! But this beach was really one of our favorite places, and definitely worth the ankle-twisting, lava walk!

There are actually four stunning beaches along this portion of the shore that you can walk to. Each one is spectacular and has different attractive charms from the others. We spent a few hours at each, and then scurried back through the lava path before it got too dark, enjoying the last rays of a glorious sunset.

The Beaches for Turtles and Sunsets:

No words can quite describe these beaches as the sun dips down to kiss the Pacific ocean goodnight. On this particular beach (the name of which escapes me, cuz… Sooo so many beaches to visit!) the green turtles are busy eating on the lava rocks and could care less about the magnificence you are witnessing! Come for the turtles, stay for the sunset.

Driving Around: Cruising in Style

Let’s talk about cruising around the island! Rent a convertible or better yet, if you are driving to those hard to get to places, rent a jeep with a removeable top!! Let the wind blow wildly through your hair and enjoy the sun smiling down on you as you navigate the scenic mamalahoa Highway ( Hawaii Belt Hwy.) From lush rainforests to dramatic lava fields, the ever-changing landscapes will keep you looking left and right and behind you! Don’t forget to cue up your favorite road trip playlist – there’s nothing like the open road, a convertible top down, and your favorite music to set the mood! We had Agnes in the back seat to make sure the tunes kept coming.

As you venture around the island, make pit stops at local food trucks for some ono (delicious) island eats. Grab a plate lunch and savor the flavors of Hawaii – it’s like a culinary tour that’ll have your taste buds dancing to iTune’s Hawaii’s Essential Top Hits. (We really didn’t appreciate these tunes as much as we should have, really! LOL) There was no meal that we didn’t thoroughly love! And there was no tropical fruit that we didn’t try…. Oh. Except the Noni fruit. It’s extremely good for you! But… not extremely good tasting. (I really did try to eat one, but it wasn’t ripe enough to have the blue cheese and garlic taste it’s supposed to have. Maybe next time I come across one!)

The Kohala Coast: Driving to the North Shore:

Drive up route 270 up to the North corner of the Big Island, and you are in the Kohala Region! On route 19 you will pass lovely rolling hills and bright green pastures full of cattle. A totally different scenery from the lava flows below. These cows have the most envied views on the island, lucky cows! There is a series of valleys that is impassable by car, even by jeep, but you can see them on each side by driving to the lookout points: The Pololu Valley Lookout has a strenuous, historic hike down to the beach below (the strenuous part being the return to the top!) or you can simply park and enjoy the magnificent view from the top. We stopped at Gill’s Lanai Restaurant for incredibly fresh fish tacos along the road to this point! Sub out the fries for the purple sweet potato salad! We ate this every chance we got. And yes, it is bright purple!

On the other side of these same valleys, which were formed by a successive series of lava flows, is Waipi’o Valley Lookout. Here you can park at the top to enjoy the vista, and you can walk down to the beach, as long as you remember this is sacred land and private property. All the beaches are for public use here on the Big Island. No one is allowed to own the beaches, but they ask you to respect the property owners around this beach whose ancestors have been here for centuries, fishing and farming in this valley. When ranching was introduced in the late 1800’s this northern area’s land and way of life was greatly changed for the Native Hawaiians, so let’s respect their properties today.

Another rule on this island: Do NOT take any lava off the island! No matter how much you WANT to, please don’t do it out of respect for the native Hawaiian culture here and their sacred beliefs. And if that’s not enough for you to resist the temptation, just know that Pele, the god of the volcano, will not be happy with you!…. Even the lava jewelry that is made here is not made with the lava of Big Island! They actually bring in lava from Asia to make jewelry to sell. They do not sell Pele’s lava. And since she is still very much active here on Big Island, you might want to heed the warning.

Drive around Hawaii’s National Volcano Park:

Speaking of Pele’s activity on this volcano island, if Mauna Loa is active when you are here, there is a trail you can take to go see the lava flows close up and personal if you dare! But you might want to go with a guide. I talked about our trip to the Volcano in the above section on hiking. But there is the Crater Drive that used to circle the entire crater until part of the road was lost during its recent eruption in 2018. Now you can go in each direction and turn back at the dead end. Terrifyingly fascinating to see the difference in the crater size pre-2018 and post 2018.

Pele was pretty calm when we were up there, but she was still sputtering and coughing out some steam while we were walking around the crater, and the steam vents were spewing out hot steam at full force. If you REALLY want a steam bath up there, just light a piece of rolled up paper with a lighter and hold it over the steam vent. It will start to steam up enormously!! Once you blow it out, you can count the seconds backwards from ten and the extra steam will immediately stop at zero. WILD!…. I can’t explain the science behind that LOL.

The Road to Mauna Kea:

Another volcano trip on this island of volcanos is the drive up Mauna Kea! For this drive, you must have a four wheel drive vehicle, you must be brave, and bring sweaters or jackets!! When we were going up over the Saddle Road, where the turn off for that trail is, the temperature was 55 degrees down from the 80 degrees we left at sea level. We were seriously happy to have brought warm clothes for that drive as we did refuse to put the top back on our jeep! Cuz…. WHY?

If you continue to Mauna Kea from here, it will be sometimes paved and sometimes a dirt road nearer the summit. This is considered one of the hardest roads to drive in the United States with a 15% grade at times, narrow, winding and well, you get the picture. I am a little sad we didn’t take a day to do this drive, but we must leave things for our next trip! Instead, we continued on over the Saddle Road to Hilo for the day. But just the ride on Saddle Road is well worth it if you’d like to get up close and personal to lava landscaping.

Another way to see this volcano is to take a tour! They do the scary driving, and provide warm clothing and hot chocolate, and you get to take in the most glorious star gazing opportunity on the island. There are various tour companies on the island that will pick you up from your hotel.

The East Coast of the Big Island: Hilo

It’s easy to get turned around on this island and not know which way is up! If you are near the town of Hilo, you have made it to the Northwestern shoreline.

There are two large towns on the Big Island which have airports for you to fly into: Kona and Hilo. Kona ,on the western side, is much drier and sunnier and receives the most visitors. But Hilo deserves attention, too, and depending on what you are looking to be near, you can find nice B & Bs on this quieter side of the island. What I loved about this side of the island is the freener, lusher landscape! Hikes through lush Rainforests are found more often on the Hilo side! A walk down the main streets of Hilo is like stepping into the 1950’s. In addition, Hilo is right down the road from Volcano National Park! And there are many beautiful points of interest along it’s northern shoreline.

We flew into Kona where most of the bigger resorts are located. But we drove over for a day trip to Hilo and the Volcano park. You can get there in various directions. Saddle Road goes over the top and is the wild and barren volcano area! Also the daring ride to Mauna Kea is off of the Saddle Road (More info about that road under the Mauna Kea section.)

You can also take the coastal road from Kona through Captain Cook and enjoy a windy coastal road, with some fantastic places along the way for ocean views and yummy food. We stopped to visit the Place of Refuge at Two Step (see the snorkeling section for more info on this peaceful historical site) and made a visit to the Punalu’u Bake Shop in Naalehu which came highly recommended, and did not disappoint! We also drove to the southern most tip of the United States at South Point Park! If you are very, very brave and more than a little crazy, you can jump off this cliff into the ocean 40 feet below and climb back up to the top either on a ladder, or on the side of the cliff. Your choice. (We chose NOT to jump!)

Okay, Seriously, People…. Let’s Talk Coffee:

I really thought Hawaiian coffee was just hyped up talk…. Too much sun and fun that they over-romanticized the taste of the coffee…. But, sincerely, I am amazed at the coffee shops here. I’m not sure I will ever recuperate when I leave and have to go back to a place where people think burnt coffee and overly sweet drinks from Starbucks are great-tasting coffee. Ohhhhhh am I going to miss it. Every… single… coffe shop…. Had… amazingly different …. spectacular… heavenly coffee.

Of course, we have our favorite coffee shops to share: our top faves were three: HiCo Hawaiian Coffee where they serve an iced purple colored Ube Latte that’s a miracle. Second, is Waimea Coffeeshop up north in Waimea, but also in Kona, which has heavenly cortados and mochas and absolutely everything else there. And third, but not at all the least because of their food and desserts, and especially their smoothie bowls which are Ohhh so delicious as well, is Arise Bakery in Kona. The Coffee Shack gets honorable mention here because, although we didn’t have their coffee, we had their PIE!! And, well, don’t miss it. That’s all I have to say about that.

Coffee Plantations: we loved our visit to the small secluded coffee farm called Bay view Coffee Farm. This is a smaller coffee farm on this island, and to me that’s just adds it to the “More Special” Category. They do not sell any of their coffee to large companies, stores or distributors, only to their customers who walk in their door or visit their online site! The tour was fascinating. I learned A LOT about coffee that I didn’t know!

Down the road from this Coffee Farm is Hawaii’s own painted church! I wrote a blog a while back about Texas’s Painted Churches, so I was excited to go see this one! But, alas…. It was closed on Monday. And we did not get back down this way before leaving. We do have to leave a few things for our next trip here!

And do NOT leave the area without going to The Coffee Shack for their amazing pies! Seriously. Don’t miss it. Come for the pie, and stay for the view.

A Bit of Hawaiian History Before You Go:

Before ending our chat about the Big Island of Hawaii, I would be remiss if I did not mention how terribly our government treated the native Hawaiians during its tumultuous change from a self-standing monarchy to the 50^th state of the United States. So let’s grab that cup of coffee and chat just a bit. We apparently learned nothing from our dealings with Native Americans, learned nothing from our treatment of African Americans, and so we did no better when it came to incorporating the Hawaiian Islands into the United States. The history of this time for the Hawaiians is wrought with injustice and suffering, then and continuing even up to the current events of the Maui fires.

Because I noticed roads and historical sites and statues named after queen Liliʻuokalani, and King Kamehameha, it gave me the impression that we respected the last monarchs, or at least held them in high esteem to honor them with memorial highways. But I did a bit of research while here because, besides the fact that they became the 50^th state in 1959, I knew very little about the history of Hawaii and its path to that statehood.

The reality is that this queen ruled at a very prosperous and successful time for Hawaii. Hawaiians enjoyed universal suffrage (over 100+ years before the US), universal health care, state neutrality , and a 95 percent literacy rate! But she was overthrown and imprisoned in her home from 1897, after a coup assisted by the US military, till her death in 1917.

The Hawaiians and the other peoples in this multi-ethnic society, suffered the continuous erosion of their traditional way of life, the suppression of their cultural practices, the hula, and the Hawaiian language. Sugar and pineapple industries, driven by American interests, exploited the islands’ resources, and stole their ancestral lands. The effects of these historical events persist today, with Native Hawaiians facing socio-economic challenges, insane land rights issues, and a continuous struggle to preserve and revitalize their cultural heritage.

The transition from monarchy to statehood marked a profound and painful shift for the native Hawaiians, and many still today view their land more as an occupied territory than a state in the union. Despite the agreement by the US government to give back 200,000 acres to the Native Hawaiians in the 1920s (this feat was accomplished by Prince Kūhiō and a group of advocates who pressured congress) much of that land is still locked in a quagmire of bureaucratic hurdles and endless waitlists for those who qualify. Hawaiians are making great efforts to overcome the adversity they face to be granted a parcel of their native land that was promised to them by the United States government, but that is still choked and impeded even one hundred years after having been granted back to them. There are ongoing efforts to restore and celebrate Hawaiian culture, language, and traditional practices as well and demonstrate to us the resilience and determination of the native Hawaiians to reclaim and honor their heritage. We who visit this magical, mystical, land full of such charm and loveliness need to be cognizant of what they’ve gone through and what they face even today as they try to hold on to what makes Hawaii such an amazing place to visit, and the people are so welcoming, and loving. Let’s be respectful of their land and culture, even when our government is not. They deserve better.

* Disclaimer!! Man these Hawaiian names are haaaard!! I have tried hard to spell them correctly, even though I know I am certainly not pronouncing them correctly! Apologies for any misspellings!!

Big Island Bliss: Snorkeling, Hikes, Waterfalls, and Hidden Beaches. OH.. and Coffee!